Wednesday, July 7, 2010

UPDATED Day Fifteen: Tuesday, Parliament Day, Kate's Post

PARLIAMENT TUESDAY

Today was an exercise in Ghana time. Joey and I were up and ready for our pick up to Parliament at 6:00am, as instructed by Charles the night before. The van arrived at 7:10 and off we headed. Turns out the first bus arrived late, reminiscent of more than one FWP field trip. The second bus never made it so half the kids weren’t able to come – I can’t imagine the disappointment. Field trips are a rarity. Greenie helped get everyone organized and loaded on the first bus.

Because we were running late we took a lot of back roads to save time. It’s hard to imagine that bouncing slowly through the crater-pocked dirt roads was actually faster but it was an experience. The Accra morning traffic is outrageous! Four lanes merging from opposite directions into one lane – cars lined up beyond the horizon line. It was crazy. Between the van and the school bus ahead of us zig-zagging through traffic, people darting out and across the street, traffic signals that were more like suggestions than actual requirements….it was a harrowing trip.



We arrived at Parliament at 9:00, were directed to our seats in the observation gallery and then we waited. The session was called for 10:00 so around 10:30 we figured the MPs (Ministers of Parliament) would arrive. Nope. 11:00 came and went, then 11:30. The man who was our liaison told us we’d be leaving at 12:30.


Inside the Parliament building


I gave the students some math practice problems while we waited to go into chambers -
these students are working on 276 x 9



Greenie and the government liaison


Greenie sitting with the press corp - the woman has skills

at getting herself in the right place at the right time

for the benefit of the school.

At that point the kids were really getting antsy, which was completely legitimate. They were hungry, thirsty, cold (the AC in the room was really blowing – Greenie and I were loving it). And bored! 12:08pm and the Speaker of Parliament, the Honorable Mrs. Joyce Adeline Bamford-Addo (Africa’s first female Speaker) was announced. They approved the vetting of a nominee by President Atta for the western region and then debated, at length, this:

The Hon. Member for Amenfi East, Mr. Joseph Boahen Aidoo made a complaint about comments allegedly made by Mr. Kofi Wayo on CIti FM radio which were published in the Monday 5th July, 2010 edition of the New Crusading Guide that Parliament is useless and most Members of Parliament are criminals.

The Minority leader had brought this issue to the Parliament yesterday and today many Ministers waxed eloquent on the matter. The second person to speak noted that “to forgive is divine” and encouraged the other members to let it go. Another Minister, the majority leader, said that to chase after this matter, to pursue Wayo would be foolish. He quoted an African story, “If you are in the bathroom bathing and you are naked and the crazy man comes in and takes your towel you do not chase after the crazy man. Because although he is in tatters he has your towel and you are naked. It is you then who is the crazy man, running naked through the streets.” We left at 1:00 so we missed the final decision.

Charles and Joey reading the daily Parliament report

The Speaker and her secretaries
Parliament (finally) in session

Fingers crossed the clip on the Accra news wasn't this one - Joey's nodding off!! : )

Out in the lobby, a government representative came out and talked to Tuskegee and another school about the various roles and responsibilities of the Parliament and its members. An MP walked up to the group and introduced himself to Charles. They know each other from working together years ago and the man was quite gracious and spoke to the entire group of students. He told them that he had missed out on the type of education they were receiving, that he had to work at home and help his mother. He encouraged them to keep up their studies, to work hard and become teachers and doctors and Ministers of Parliament. It was a great moment.


The Parliament representative told students about the responsibilities of Ministers

Tuskegee students taking notes and listening intently!


The Minister joined the Parliament representative to talk with the students.


Greenie and Charles, radiant!



The Whole Gang

At this point the kids were pretty much done. We walked across the grounds and up onto a grassy area by a fountain. It was a long day for the forty students and they had 30 minutes of bone-rattling drive home ahead of them. They were really resilient – it was impressive.

Charles took Greenie, Joey, Ken and me to the artisans market. Haggling. Haggling. Haggling. Pretty stuff but sensory overload. We left quickly, had meat pies and Fanta and then took a back route around Accra. We saw the new overpass being built that will hopefully alleviate some of the traffic congestion in the center of town, as well as a huge market area. Homeward bound we drove by the city’s garbage dump; the smell was indescribable.

Tomorrow night we’re having dinner with the family so tonight was our final meal of chicken and rice at the hotel. It was delicious even though I threw my plate in the air when a bug landed on my head. Joey asked me, calmly and trying hard not to laugh in my face, “So, you’re not some one who really likes camping, huh?” Nope.

Tomorrow is our last teaching day.



Day Fourteen: Monday night, Kate's Post

Tonight I feel pulled in two directions. I am eager for to get back to Chicago; I miss my family and my space, my garden and the smell outside the library down the street. I miss home. At the same time, I am not ready to leave Ghana, and our departure is looming. It’s difficult to feel both of these at the same time. Conflicted.



Yesterday, before we left for Volta and were waiting at the compound, Jackline (I’ve finally got her spelling right) was filling a bucket at the water tank and she said good morning with a nearly coquettish shyness – I knew she was ready to give me a hug and it felt so good. I hoped, if I was lucky, to set the foundation for one real relationship while I was here, but it has been so much more than that - Jackline, Mac, Fausty, Charles, Grace, Portia, Anita, Belinda. Something is happening and now seems like the wrong time to leave.

Jackline

Monday. Today was a strange and sort of dark day. Moods were low at school and they should have been up – we’re finishing projects, graduation is coming, tomorrow is the Parliament trip. But kids, teachers, all of us we were in a bit of a funk. I think that’s part of why now seems too soon to leave. We’re all just getting to know one another, to trust each other really, beyond the surface; we could have a dark day and make it to the end and still accomplish so much and learn and work hard and struggle through. The real work.

At the end of the day, Belinda asked me to talk with Portia, a student in Form 1 (JHS 1 or Parker’s 6th Grade). Belinda brought her over and said with a warm smile, “she doesn’t like math.” She wanted me to “have a talk” with Portia, and as it turned out, Anita and Grace. Belinda later told me that when she asks the girls what they are struggling with, they say “nothing Madam” and refuse to express what’s hard. She thought maybe they would open up to me. I am flattered beyond belief and while I wouldn’t say that any one of them particularly opened themselves up too much, each girl described something I could understand about them as math students, something to work from and strategize from to best support their growth as mathematicians. Doctors and journalists. That’s what they want to be.

Grace is an amazing math student; she’s so verbal and expressive I had to give her the theoretical mouth zipper during class today. She has deep ebony skin and wide eyes that she closes when she tilts her head back to think about what she’s describing in a math scenario. Like she’s picturing the numbers behind those closed eyes. Interestingly enough, she tests badly – 27% on an exam this spring. These tests determine what grade level she’ll move to next year – if she tests in this range again, she’ll be forced to repeat Form 1 and this would be terrible loss for her classmates and most importantly to Grace’s confidence and growth as an academic. I think she has a written language processing issue. As she described herself, “I understand but I can’t write down what I’m thinking.” It’s like her had can’t keep up with her mind and she makes mistakes because she starts manipulating numbers again before she’s noted her initial process or work. This happened today, prior to meeting this afternoon and I was able to use that example, and in particular how she was able to reflect back on her work and identify where the error occurred and why (excellent!).



For Anita and Portia, they’re both strong math students – they have good strategies and ideas, but there are gaps in their foundational understanding of certain concepts – almost like gaps in number sense that need to be filled in. So that’s the plan. They are going to meet together and with a set of problems work on making stronger their core understanding of some of the more basic concepts. They agreed (separately) that it was their job to get the work done and to ask questions – of themselves and their teacher. Belinda and I agreed that our job was to make sure we were available (and my capacity here is limited but not impossible) to answer their questions and guide them forward with a solid base. It was important, I think, that both sides identify what we would do to get moving.

These girls show such amazing mathematical capacity. The world today, while better than in previous generations, doesn’t particularly encourage girls in the broader areas of math and sciences. I know that is a sweeping generalization and I don’t mean every person in the world is hell-bent on keeping girls down….but it’s there – math is “not an area of strength” for girls and they buy into this, often by saying “I’m more of a reader” or “I’m a writer, I don’t do math.” As if there is something mutually exclusive going on. But I digress….

Belinda and I are trading email addresses and I have promised the girls I will check in regularly and send them problem solving questions in the year ahead. It’s thrilling, really really thrilling, to be a part of this. I can’t tell you all what it means but maybe the above gives you a hint at it.



Mac. Saturday Mac asked me about the US. He’s the first student to really ask me direct questions about where I live. He asked me, very quietly while he, Jackline and I were sanding a bookcase, “Madam Kate, in your country do the teachers have the cane?” It took me a minute to figure out what he meant, “Do you mean, do teachers use the cane on students in America?” He nodded. This is hard because in Ghana, the cane is common, a part of the culture. Later, Joey told me that corporal punishment was a part of his grammar school experience, so it’s important to remember that it was not all that long ago that this was banned in the US. I told Mac that in the US there were laws to prevent teachers from hurting a child. He nodded and didn’t ask me any more about it.

Mac

Then he asked me about a character named Helicopter Reporter. He told me a long story about him. He had super powers but his parents were killed when he was very young. The bad guys, who had killed his parents, were trying to kill him. Some mean people and some nice people were letting him stay with them and he was going to school to learn how to use his super powers. Mac then explained to me, with some graphic accuracy, how the boy’s powers originated from his face. Mac used lots of hand gestures and pantomimed stretching to get the point across. He asked me did we have any shows like that in the US. I was thinking….Helicopter Reporter? Nothing familiar about that…..Hm…but yes, there’s that movie about the kid with super powers who goes to super power school but his powers aren’t activated….I watched it with my nieces, I swear this wasn’t a movie I chose to watch. Anyway, I answer, “Yeah, we have something similar. Super Hero High or something like that.” Jackline looks at us over the edge of the book case and says. “It’s a scab on his head, like this.” She made a jagged line on her forehead and my very own lighting bolt smacked me on the head. “Harry Potter?” Mac looked at me with this very clear expression that read, Duh, but what he actually said was, “Yes, Helicopter Reporter.”

Back to this morning henceforth referred to as, Difficult Monday….when I stopped by to check in with Mac’s class they were pretty rowdy. There are no subs for the school so if a teacher is gone for any reason, the other teachers step in to help out. Today, two teachers were out so the all of the teachers were helping fill in for two classes. Class 3 was sans teacher supervision for a while before I got in there. When I first arrived, they were working on “Morals and Religion” and were answering questions about tribes, chiefs, neighborhoods and neighbors. I am hopeful that I get to hear the rest of the lesson. I asked them to explain what a chief and what a tribe were. Then I asked them to compare a chief and a president. We talked about elections and how one becomes president versus chief and how one becomes chief. Many felt that the chief was more powerful than a president because when you go in to see a chief you have to take off your shoes and kneel down in front of him, but you don’t have to do that with the president. Another contingency felt that a president was more powerful because he was head of everybody and the chief was only head of some people. They asked me, “Do you have a chief?” I explained that I had alderman and a mayor and governor and senators. But no chief. Mac said, “What about your religious leader? Do you have one of those?” I told them no and Mac frowned and looked quite concerned on my behalf. At lunch Greenie, Joey and I all laughed and agreed I should have answered, “Yes, Rush Limbaugh.” Ugh!

Two hours later when I returned to Class 3 for math they were utterly out of control. Typical wound-up 8-11 years olds bouncing off the walls, bossing each other, pushing one another, yelling, correcting, swatting. It was…perfectly typical student behavior. What happened to the angels that stood up when I walked into the room and called out, “Good afternoon Madam Kate, you are welcome”?

After about thirty minutes of passing out notebooks, more swatting, correcting each other and calling out I was pretty much at the end of my tether. On Friday we had planned to split into groups to work on problem solving cards and then they would teach one another their strategies, but time was ticking by so we were out of time. We had a serious talk about it and I laid down the ground rules: no hitting, no yelling, so bossing, no calling out answers….on and on. NoNoNo. Not exactly the tone I was going for. Ugh again. Anyway, it’s noisy, they’re all telling one another to be quiet and Mac looks up at me with his round eyes and open-car-door ears and says with utmost sincerity, “Madam Kate, should I show you the cane?” I did a double take and said, “What! No, Mac, I don’t want you to show me the cane. I want you and every one else in this room to sit down and stop talking!” I had that internal laugh-cringe moment and we moved on. One by one they said, “We can do it Madam. We are ready. You can trust us. We are ready.” It is an irresistible sound that and I am glad of it.

Turns out we had another hour so we got to do some “crossing the mid-line” exercises and yoga poses to start, finished six math cards and ended with three groups sharing their strategies. An excellent, excellent end.

So you can see what I mean, perhaps, about the conflict. There are reasons to go home and a seemingly endless list of reasons to stay and each one of those reasons has a face and a story, a life and a desire to learn to go with it. I understand Greenie’s joy here now. I understand what it means to fall in love with this place. And right now, with just a few days to go, I understand the dread of the long distance lover, preparing to go home.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Day Fourteen: Monday, Greenie's Post

Greenie's Post:

I had an opportunity to teach KG 2 (S.K.) today and loved every minute of it. We worked on short vowels, kids did silent reading, and then I introduced them to dominoes. They enjoyed messing around with them, building houses, making letter shapes, and then learning how to use them for addition and subtraction. Later we worked on how to do simple division using unit cubes from the base ten block set.

While use of materials has not been consistent, it is something that captures the interest of the children at Tuskegee and certainly supports their understanding of the material they are taught.

Today was also the beginning of our last few days of this amazing journey in Ghana at Tuskegee. It was a day filled with activities that need to either be finished or come to a close. Both Joey and Kate resumed their work in their areas. Joey has been going non-stop and engaging more and more students (girls especially) in woodworking activities. Kate times her daily schedules of math lessons and plans her lessons in a very organized and engaging way. She is quite the expert at answering questions and sharing her knowledge in math and is leaving quite a mark on the teachers and students; I am sure will be teaching via e-mail for years to come.

Joey’s “team” of workers increased to include 7th and 8th graders and then several kids from different grades. Sanding, pounding, varnishing, sawing, filled the compound with wonderful sounds of progress and growth for the school. Joey is leaving quite a legacy at Tuskegee.

There is a lot going on today outside the compound as teachers reserve buses for the impending trip to Parliament tomorrow. Student representatives have been chosen from grades one through eight and were given a pep talk about going to bed early tonight, eating a good breakfast tomorrow morning, and coming to school with a clean uniform, clean shoes, socks, and the all important handkerchief. Students are scheduled to meet at the school at 6:00 a.m. It is a very exciting opportunity for Joey, Kate, and myself since we were able to attend the Chicago Council on Global Affairs in Chicago when Ambassador Agyekum was in town and now we get to see Parliament in Ghana.

I think we are looking forward to tomorrow’s experience at Parliament. So we will say goodnight and greet you tomorrow with another amazing day in Ghana.

Day Thirteen - Fourth of July and Lake Volta

Today was a thirteen hour adventure! We started at 8am, the one day so far Joey and I have made it to school on time. Prior to departure, we went to breakfast which usually starts at 7:30 but today started at 7am. It was very crowded with well-dressed tourists from the West In dies and some from Florida. I asked a crowd of them where they were headed so early in the morning. Church. Of course. I was pretty chagrined at my failure to connect the day of the week, the fancy attire, the early hour and that they are here as a part of a church group doing missionary work.

So, off we headed to school and once there, waited about an hour before leaving. Ghana time. While waiting for everyone to get ready to leave Greenie, Joey and I sang the National Anthem to have our own little 4th of July celebration. Charles, Madam Fausty, Greenie, Joey and I left the compound and headed northeast towards Lake Volta in the Volta Region. We passed through many towns, each with its own distinctive character. One had adobe houses with thatched roofs and palm trees. Another town had many, many stores selling coffins. This was surprising as many Ghanaians are superstitious about coffins – if you build it, some one needs go in it so building coffins is frowned on prior to some one actually dying. Charles explained that this particular village, which was pretty big, has the highest rate of HIV infections in the country.

We reached the mountains and Lake Volta at the same time and headed west briefly to visit the dam and sluice gates. Notice my made-up tech term here. Charles’ father-in-law used to work at a cargo company nearby, so we got a tour of the facility and the barges used to transport food-stuffs and concrete to and from the northern area of the river. They also fill tankers of oil here and each barge carries the equivalent to 400 tons of oil – they are deceptively massive!

Did I mention the food? Well, Joey and I broke every tourist book/medical recommendation we received prior to travel…. We ate the local fast food. Fast food in Ghana is……women selling mussels on skewers, plastic bags filled with bright red shrimp, large leaves filled with steamed sugary maize called abollo (kind of like a tamale but sweet), and bags of what looked like dried oregano but were actually tiny little fish (eyes and all) kind of like krill that had been fried. We ate the krill with the abollo and we ate the shrimp. That’s right, we ate the shrimp that were in the bags sitting in a basket on a lady’s head for who knows how long in the hot equatorial sun.I’m not sure how many US sanitation rules that little snack violated, but it was so good, it was worth breaking the rules.

After that we drove back east and stopped at a bridge built across the river in 1955 that had been recently refurbished. It was a cool structure. When a truck went across, the bridge shook quite a bit. I was walking with Charles and he got a pretty good laugh out of my reaction (squeal). Greenie, Fausty and Joey were behind us and Greenie had the same reaction – hands to her sides and a deep “whoa, whoa.” .

Back in the van with minerals and biscuits and we’re off to Tema, Ghana’s second largest urban area and its port city. We saw tankers, we saw containers, we went to the coast. It was a very interesting area. From there we hit a restaurant called Next Door that Charles and Fausty really like. Greenie had told us about it already so we were excited to go there. We had a table on the rocks and put our feet in the Gulf of Guinea. And then we ate some more. Spring rolls filled with some vegetables and unidentified meat which we covered with a spicy pepper sauce (more rule breaking).

Our final stop was to visit Charles’ Aunty and his cousin Ceci. This leg of the journey was slowed by Black Star traffic. The team returned to Ghana today to a huge celebration that clogged Accra’s streets.

Ceci works in banking and Aunty has a little shop on the ground floor of her building.We were there for a few hours and met Martin, a soft spoken man who is a stone mason, Cesar who lives in Canada and Ghana and travels back and forth and finally Edward – a VERY charismatic man who knows how to tell a yarn. We talked politics, discrimination, business finance, hierarchies within the workplace and good leadership qualities and skills. And, we talked about Bill Clinton and resulting bawdy jokes ensued. They assured us that according to Ghanaian law, Clinton committed no crimes. We’ll leave the rest to your imagination. Joey ate all the peanuts Aunty put out and then we went home. ...

Now that we’re back in the hotel, we’re reflecting on the day but really our time in Ghana…

This whole trip, although we are notably other (different culture, different country, different spoken inflection, and of course different looking) we haven’t really experienced that feeling of being other. Charles and Fausty, the entire community, every one we’ve interacted with has treated us as though we are not just welcome but part of the family. Really, everywhere we’ve been. I’m not sure I’m expressing this accurately, but since I arrived I have found myself surrounded by a feeling of connection and acceptance in all ways.

Joey’s also pointing out that, thirteen (fourteen for Joey and Greenie) days in, we’re starting to get on each other’s nerves. Just like it always is in a family. :)


please take a look at these photos- It was a beautiful day and we wanted to share all of the wonderful things we saw in this gorgeous country- AND of course we wanted to share the "Shrimps" :))